Samaria — Bible & Vineyards

The Bible’s most famous stories took place here. This is a region where ancient history meets a growing modern wine culture, where you come to understand the geopolitics of the area as well as its past — and the rides themselves are part of the tour.

From Abraham’s first journey through the land, to where Jacob had his dream, to ancient Shiloh where the Ark stood for 369 years, to the mountains overlooking biblical Shechem.

Bet El, ancient Shiloh, Givot Olam Farm, local wine tasting, a visit to the Samaritans, an EZ-rider tour, springs, archery or cycling are all available.

A note before the itinerary

Samaria is politically contested, and I am not going to pretend otherwise on a tour page. What is here is a mix of Israeli communities, Palestinian cities and villages, and archaeological sites of the first importance, under a patchwork of administrative arrangements.

What that means practically: routes are planned around current conditions, some sites are straightforward and others are not, and the security situation genuinely determines what runs on a given week. I will tell you honestly what is accessible when you enquire rather than promising a fixed list.

What it means for the day itself: you will hear the history, and you will hear about the present, including the parts that are argued over. I am not going to hand you a single tidy narrative about a place that does not have one.

Ancient Bet El

I like starting our trip at ancient Bet El, a hilltop site still being excavated, traditionally identified with the patriarchal town of Bethel where Jacob’s dream is said to have occurred.

On a clear day you can spot Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and cities in Israel’s north and south from here. This is where you understand the geopolitical advantage of Samaria that so many Israeli commanders have pointed to.

Ancient Shiloh

Shiloh is where the Tabernacle stood for 369 years, before Jerusalem, before the Temple. This is where Hannah prayed for a son and where Samuel grew up. The excavations have exposed what is very plausibly the platform the Tabernacle stood on, and it is a quiet, unpolished site — no crowds, no queues, just a hilltop and a great deal of narrative.

For a lot of visitors Shiloh is the surprise of the day. Jerusalem is overwhelming; Shiloh is the opposite, and people often find it lands harder.

Shechem overlook

Shechem, modern Nablus, is where Abraham is described arriving in the land and building an altar, where God’s promise of the land was first made. Where Jacob bought a field, where Joseph is buried, where Joshua gathered the tribes to renew the covenant between Mount Gerizim and Mount Ebal.

Givot Olam Farm

Home to laying hens, goats, a dairy and vineyards, where everything is made without preservatives or colorings. Stroll the paths and hear the many stories behind the family and the place.

The wine

Samaria’s hills are limestone and chalk, where the grapes thrive in thin, rocky soil with hot days and cool nights. We visit a working winery for a real tasting: meet the makers, stroll the vineyard in season, and taste a full range. It is a satisfying midday stop after a morning of hilltops and history. Wineries I recommend: Shiloh Winery, Psagot Winery and Kabir Winery.

Swapping options

Mount Gerizim — Jews who still offer sacrifices on their own holy mountain? Who are the Samaritans? At the top of Mount Gerizim the remains of the ancient Samaritan sacred precinct have been found, and around them a large city from the Hellenistic period.

Mount Kabir — The EZ-rider option, a great overlook across the heartland of the Kingdom of Israel, and a visit to the winery.

Practical notes

A full day, roughly seven to nine hours from Jerusalem.

This is a driving day with walking at each site. The sites themselves involve uneven ground and some steps.

Who it suits

Bible and history lovers, above all. If you have read these accounts your whole life and never stood in the places, this is the day that changes that.

Wine enthusiasts, who tend to arrive with no expectations of Israeli wine and revise them.

Couples and adult groups. This is a thoughtful day with a lot of conversation in it, and it is not the right day for young children — long drives, exposed sites, and subject matter that needs some patience.